Day 1

Monday 29 November 1999

We left from the beach just down from the police station at Strahan at 0850 and paddled south down Long Bay then east into Letts Bay

The tour boats leave Strahan at 0900 exactly each day.

After paddling across Letts Bay we paddled up the King River as far as there gorge and returned. Both the northern and southern approaches to the river are very shallow (0950).

On returning to the harbour and heading SSW towards King Point the water was that shallow that I had to get out and walk the canoe for nearly half a kilometre.

After getting back in we saw a sea eagle on a log in the shallow water.

From King Point we cut across the little bay and headed south to Connelly’s Point. Just north of Connelly’s Point we stopped for morning tea on a long beach (1100 to 1200).

After rounding Connelly’s Point we headed south to Sophia Point, stopping for lunch and camp at the creek coming in ESE of the point (116219) at 1300.

The weather was fine and still early but about 1130 a westerly wind came up. As we were heading south the waves were steep and we took a little water broadside on the odd occasion.

Day 2

Tuesday 30 November 1999

We left Sophia Point at 0800. The morning was sunny with calm waters.

We paddled southeast to Philips Island.

On passing Coal Head we saw lots of swans (50 or more) in the inlets.

Most of the coastline was high cliffs with pebbly beaches.

We had morning tea on Philips Island at 1015. We found some interesting rocks, they looked like lava or kiln slag.

We paddled around the island and then east to Braddan Creek for lunch.

We were going to camp in the hut but it was very dirty and rat infested. We ate lunch outside (1130 to 1230) and decided to move on to Pillinger.

From Braddan Creek we paddled south and then SSW to Gould Point.

After rounding the point we hoisted the sail and sailed around Farm Cove.

From Farm Cove we sailed around Pine Point and into Kelly Basin. Once in the basin the wind dropped and we had to tack numerous times with fluky winds before the wind settled from the north west. We could then sail to Pillinger and camp. (1600).

The hut was clean so we unpacked and went to look for water and a better landing point. The one we were using was full of smelly mud.

We found fresh water up the creek from the hut and a better landing point to use tomorrow.

We had tea by candlelight and settled down for a good night sleep.

Day 3

Wednesday 1 December 1999

We had a good nights sleep awaking at 0800. The day was hot with warm north westerly winds.

We cleaned the canoe and did some washing.

We paddled to East Pillinger and had a look at the two brick kilns and boiler. We were unable to find the third kiln. We would need more time to explore.

We followed the track to the Bird River to get drinking water. This took one and a half hours return but we did meet a national parks Ranger from Queenstown. We spoke with her for about twenty minutes.

The walk to the Bird River was along the disused rail line through tall ferns. We also saw some old rail carriages with trees growing through them.

We paddled back to Pillinger for a late lunch.

During the afternoon we saw some Yellow Throated Honey Eaters (only seen in Tasmania) and some Welcome Swallows nesting under the old jetty near the hut.

We also saw three potoroos and a snake on the walk and had some potoroos around the hut after dark.

According to he Ranger tomorrow will be 26 degrees with south west winds so we plan to leave early.

Day 4

Thursday 2 December 1999

We got up early (0600) packed up and were away by 0800. The day was warm but overcast.

We paddled SSW from Kelly Basin past Brisbane Bay where we saw lot of swans (30 or more).

We stopped for morning tea (0945) at the entrance to the Gordon River. There is a nice campsite here, protected by the trees.

At 1015 we paddled around to the mouth of the Gordon River. It is very shallow here.

We paddled up the Gordon River and arrived at Pine Landing at 1300. We met some fishermen who said we could use the hut to make a cup of tea.

After lunch we continued up the Gordon River and after 1/2 and hour we reached Heritage Landing.

As there were no boats around we decide to stop and have a look.

After leaving Heritage Landing and rounding the first bend we had a North West wind which was ideal for sailing, which we did and a fast sail at that.

The wind continued to build and after awhile became to strong and was bulletting out of the valleys so it was back to paddling.

After several kilometres we started to look for the camp site at Eagle Creek but could not find it. We continued on looking for a sandy beach and a plc e to camp, but it was very dense and overgrown with fallen trees etc.

It was getting late and the weather was getting worse, rain and wind. We had our capes on but were still getting wet. We decided to continue on to the hut art Warner’s Landing.

On the way the fog came up getting thicker the further we ant hop the river.

We saw a platypus, which swam close to us, the first I have seen in the wild. We also saw an Azure Kingfisher.

Some hours went by and we thought we would not make it before dark but we arrived at 2000 (before dark). We were very tired.

Two Rangers were already in the hut but they did not mind if we shared. It was good to get off our bums. We both had sore bottoms and shoulders.

There were several potoroos around the hut as well as possums, which kept trying to get into the hut.

There was a note in the hut logbook about someone who left their canoe boots outside and the possums chewed them.

We got into some dry clothes and had tea (2200) and went straight to bed.

Day 5

Friday 3 December 1999

We woke at 0600 as the Rangers were packing to leave. It rained steadily all night and river came up but it was hard to see for the mist.

After the ranger left we had breakfast, sorted out our things, re arranged there bedding from the floor to the bunks and did some washing. We had to put up a line in the hut, as it was far to wet outside.

The weather was getting worse and due to the rain, the height and speed of the river we put off the paddle up to the Franklin River and went back to bed to catch up on some sleep.

We got up at lunchtime as the weather had started to ease.

After lunch we walked up to St John’s Falls, about 15 minutes each way, collecting a few leeches on the way.

The falls were impressive after all the rain.

On the way back it started to rain again.

We checked on the canoe and found that the sand bank that it was on had gone, but it was tied off so it was floating under the trees.

While reading the log we noted a poem by Daryn Hooper and Eileen Mansfield 10/9/95

Fire embers glowing gold

A day on the Gordon

Another day old

Today I’ve seen natures dream

Flowing rivers and cascading stream

Mirrored in the river black

Trees so old that takes you back

Huon pine logs sleeping still

Spared the fate of the piner’s mill

Resting regally one must respect

This ancient tree, lest we forget

When morning comes I shall depart

This sacred place, I leave my heart

Down the Gordon the boat will fly

Tea stained waters under mystical sky

As life progresses, I take it in hand

A special place in my sail is van Diemen land

Fry the steak on embers red

Boil the billy then go to bed.

Day 6

Saturday 4 December 1999

Woke early, the sky was overcast with light misty rain.

By the time we packed up the clouds were clearing.

We left at 8:20am and paddled up stream for 20 minutes. The river was running fast and a lot of foam came down from the Franklin rapids.

We were going to paddle up to the rapids but time did not allow as it rained all day yesterday.

We paddled back past the seaplane jetty (St John’s Falls). We encountered a lot of debris in he river making it to dangerous for the seaplane to land. One of the planes came over earlier for an inspection and went back to Strahan. A plane returned later but landed further down stream. We were able to take photos as he flew over us very close.

We had a good paddle down making up a lot of time as the river was running fast.

We stopped to have a look at Marble Cliffs and Butler Island. It was so peaceful.

We arrived at Eagle Creek at 12:30pm. The paddling was very easy with a 4 klm/h current with us.

Looking for this place wasn’t easy, the beach was almost non-existent set in very thick rain forest. The campsites are on both sides of the creek, a very large area. A lot of canoeists come here and bushwalkers going to the Franklin River.

We set up camp, very comfy, and put up a tarp in case of rain, had lunch and went for a walk. After a while we found the track to the Franklin River. We walked for a few kilometres. It was so beautiful. We had to cross a bridge, which was a log over the creek with wire rope and steel poles along it. We came back and had a rest.

At 4:00pm some canoeists turned up, a tour guide from Strahan and 2 Frenchmen. They came over and said hello.

We had an early night.

Day 7

Sunday 5 December 1999

We left at 8:30am in fine cool conditions and continued down the Gordon River. On the way we saw a platypus around Horseshoe Bend near Heritage Landing.

We arrived at Pine Landing fro morning tea at 10:00. On the way we met 2 fishermen, they knew about our 12 hour paddle to the hut from the rangers (word gets around here).

At 10:30 we continued down the Gordon River. While paddling slowly and quietly we saw three platypus swim over to us, one was following up along through the logs. What a wonderful thing to see so many. We managed to get some photos.

About 12:00pm as we were now leaving the Gordon River we paddled through the channel where the tourist boats go. The wind, coming from the south west and very strong as we rounded Garden Point and headed to camp across the bay at the entrance to Birches Inlet.

We arrived at camp 2:00pm, a nice sandy beach with the campsite in the rain forest.

Day 8

Monday 6 December 1999

Go up at 7:00am and left camp at 8:30am.

The day began with overcast sky and some sun. The water was like a mirror; the reflections were great and no wind.

Half way down the Inlet the wind picked up coming from the northwest so we were able to put up the sail. After about half an hour sail we stopped to look at a hut high up on the ridge with a road heading up there. The hut was a bit rough but it’s somewhere to stay if the weather turned bad.

We continued to sail down Birches Inlet sailing all the way into Sorell River for some 3 kilometres. The rest we paddled. The river started to narrow with a lot of dead logs and bushes with barely enough room to turn around. We came back and went up another arm of the Sorrel River. We did not go for long.

We were looking for the bird sanctuary that was supposed to be in the area.

We stopped fro lunch out in the main stream of Birches Inlet in a quiet cove. While there we heard some voices. It was two people in a dinghy paddling. We spoke with them and it turned out that they were from the bird sanctuary.

We followed them up the Birches River, catching up to them and giving them a tow to the jetty, which was some 4 kilometres.

We walked around to the hut in the sanctuary on a boardwalk throughout the bog. We had a look at the two aviaries where they are trying to breed up the numbers of the orange bellied parrots which are on the endangered list.

Nina and James Bennett invited us in for a coffee and a chat. James was very interested in the canoe and gave us his address to send him some details of the TB16.

They had been there for nearly two weeks and we were the first people seen since they got there.

They are part of the volunteers that man the hut all year round.

We left at 4:15pm and paddled to the beach on the western shore of Birches Inlet where we set up camp. We had tea on the beach overlooking the bay with a very pleasant evening.

We went to bed early.

Day 9

Tuesday 7 December 1999

We got up at 6:30. Sunny day and blue skies, no wind and the reflections on he water were great.

We left at 8:10am paddling on mirror waters. We stopped at the beach & campsite we had the previous night just for a break.

We saw sea eagles (the grey and white ones) circling over us.

We continued on to Grummet Island. The island is very small and used to be used for keeping convicts on. We climbed onto of the island liking at the built up walls and ruins there.

We then paddled on to Sarah Island, only taking 10 minutes. We pulled up on a small beach along side the jetty where there was a tourist boat in. Some of the tourists came down and spoke with us.

After they left we had some lunch, by this time it was 12:00.

After lunch we had a walk around for an hour before the next tourist boat came.

We decided to set up camp early so we paddled over to the shore opposite the island. This was a good sandy beach with a good spot to put the tent.

The afternoon was still warm but the wind came up as usual from the northeast. We got a fire going in the sand as we have not been able to have one as we were most of the time in the World Heritage area ad had to use fuel stoves only.

Cooked a damper in the small billy (came out well), which we had with jam. It was a nice treat for us.

Day 10

Wednesday 8 December 1999

Woke up early, overcast day, possible rain. Waters were smooth. We paddled for an hour and stopped at Bryan’s Bay for a break (9:30 to 9:45).

We continued on to a beach where there was a track that a lot of walkers and 3 wheel bikes go, going over the hill to Gorge Point on the west coast.

We headed north to the first salmon pens where we were there just on feeding time. We spoke to one of the men feeding the salmon. They have eight more new pens since we were here last year.

The weather was still fine and waters smooth. We paddled on around Liberty Point when high winds came up from the southwest, which made it a hard slog paddling against the wind going into Liberty Bay.

We went to the far where there were two barges where the keepers of the salmon pens stay during the day, as they have to feed the fish three times a day. We took shelter for a while and then continued on hugging the shore.

We paddled past Table Head and into Betsy’s Bay. Once again into head winds up into Betsy’s bay where we camped for the night. We spent some time looking for a campsite; there are not many places to camp. By this time the rain started only light so we unpacked the canoe and got the tent up and an awning to keep dry. By 6:00pm it was very cool.

Our campsite is directly opposite Elizabeth island which is almost in the Kelly Channel where Hells Gates is further up the Channel.

At 7:00pm we had tea, the wind has died down and the rain eased. We had an early night.

Day 11

Thursday 9 December 1999

We woke up early it had been raining. It was a very overcast day.

We did not want to waste time so we packed up and had breakfast to get an early start before the winds came up.

We no sooner got a quarter of the way out of the bay and the wind came up from the southwest with heavy seas. The further out we got the bigger the waves. The bow of the canoe was under the waves most of the time. It became a bit hair-raising at times.

We did not want to continue in these conditions so we headed to Elizabeth Island. On the lee side there was a small beach.

We got there in 15 minutes having left our campsite at 7:15am.

We sat on the beach for two hours hoping the wind and waves would die down. At 9:00 it was still the same and a lot of cloud and rain. The conditions were getting worse.

We put up the tent having to trample down some vegetation to make an area for the tent. It was better sitting in the tent than in the rain.

Come 12:00 conditions hadn’t changed and we were concerned at being stuck on the island with very little water.

After lunch we did some sleeping and reading to while away the hours.

At 4:00 we got a fire going to keep warm, as the weather did not look like abating.

We had afternoon tea out of the thermos from the morning.

As we might have to stay I went to look for water. The island is very dense with no tracks. After much bushbashing I found some water, it was rainwater in a rock pool.

There was a lot of mosquito larva, but we did not have much choice.

I got the fire going and made another damper in the billy.

By this time the wind and seas were getting lesser. Come 7:30pm conditions had improved and we decided to pack up and go while the goings good.

We paddled like mad as we were anticipating that another front was coming and rain.

We got three quarters of the way across hells Gates and we were hit by high winds and big swell. We were getting a lot of water in at this stage.

It was 8:30pm and day light was going.

It was dark before we got to the other side (9:00pm). We paddled the headland where we got out of the wind, following the high cliff line around the bay looking for a campsite. It was becoming hard to see with overcast sky. It was very dark, we had to use a torch to see the shoreline and not run into things or go aground.

We paddled for quite some time and we were both feeling tired, cold and wet.

We found a campsite on Neck Island, which is quite scrubby and rocky shore.

We put the tent up amongst the tea trees. By this time it was 11:00pm and all we wanted was to go to bed and get warm.

Day 12

Friday 10 December 1999

As we were so tired from yesterday we slept in and got up at 7:00am. It was an overcast day.

We had some fruit and nuts and a culpa for breakfast, we just did not feel like porridge again.

We packed up and were about to leave at 8:30am when it started to drizzle rain. A light wind came up from the southwest and the rain went. We took the opportunity to put up the sail. We could almost see Strahan from our campsite. We sailed all the way to Strahan taking two hours.

We got back at 10:30am. It was good to get back.

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